Madeira Wine - the Basics
The Most Undervalued of the Fortified Wines
This article looks at Madeira, arguably the most undervalued and best value of the fortified wines.
Madeira has long since fallen out of fashion, but it is the most permanent of wines and is thoroughly undervalued. It is also incredibly good value. This piece looks at what it has to offer for the lover of fortified wines.
Fortified wines are currently going through tough times. Sherry and port are waning in popularity, whilst spirits such as Vodka and Whisky are very much on an upward trajectory. Madeira is probably the least visible of all fortified wines. Go to a standard supermarket or wine shop and you may see one, possibly two varieties for sale. If you do see one, it is very likely that it is a standard sweet version which, while perfectly good in its own right, is in no way representative of what is actually available.
Madeira is fortified with alcohol and is then heated for a period prior to storage in wood. The heating oxidises the wine and, while also making it practically indestructible, also imparts a number of special flavours. One of the distinguishing aspects of Madeira is its tanginess, which prevents it from becoming too sweet and cloying, whilst adding a welcome balancing degree of acidity.
The Different Varieties
Generally speaking, Madeira can be divided into four separate and very different drinks, named after the four varieties of grape from which they come. These range from the dry, nutty Sercial to the rich raisiny Malmsey, or Malvasia as it is otherwise known. In between you have the medium-dry Verdelho and the medium-rich Boal. Like many wines, Madeira can be drunk with specific foods and at different stages of a meal. Sercial is considered an aperitif, whereas Verdelho is an ideal accompaniment to Soup, specifically Turtle soup. Boal and Malmsey are both considered dessert wines but Boal is excellent with fruit, nuts or chocolate, whereas Malmsey is normally considered a digestif. On the island, it is sometimes drunk with honey cake (bolo de mel). Having said that, each is an excellent drink in its own right.
Indesctructible
Unlike many drinks that deteriorate the longer they are kept in wood, Madeira often gets better and better, although, as with many wines, age is no guarantee of quality. There are Madeiras in the wine lodges of Funchal that have been in wood for 150 years and are improving daily. Amazingly, some are quoted as still being too young to drink after a mere hundred years, and some early eighteenth century Madeiras are still eminently drinkable, although they may need to be decanted for a number of days before they regain their proper character.
Great Value
The fact that Madeira is so out of fashion makes them superb value. A 1973 Verdelho, a luscious modern vintage will only set you back about £38 on the island, a 100 year-old Malmsey is around £170, and a 20 year old Sercial about £25. Although the younger versions have something to recommend them, Madeiras really start to show their true character after about 10 or 15 years in wood. Such bottles are available in better supermarkets and wine shops at around £18. Some supermarkets will sell rarer and older vintages on-line, so if you don’t find your preferred vintage on the shelves, all is not lost.
Above all, if you have never tried Madeira, treat yourself to a bottle. Better still, visit the island where you can visit the wine lodges and, in some case, try these vintages for free. Remember, it might be considered an old-fashioned drink, but class is permanent.
